They're called the southern islands. Far from the big cities, this part of the Danish province of Sjaelland cultivates a certain idea of happiness. A more rural hygge, with wheat fields, dolmen-filled forests, timeless villages and coastlines ranging from immense sandy beaches to towering chalk cliffs.
In the far south-east of Denmark, the islands of Lolland, Falster and Møn are now linked by bridges. But this has not prevented them from cultivating their fierce insularity and maintaining their distinctive character. Everywhere on these islands, even if the coast is never far away, it doesn't take much to find yourself in the middle of nature, amid breathtaking and ever-changing landscapes. And thanks to their almost always flat terrain, these islands are ideal destinations for cyclists and hikers.
Lolland: moais and mail boat
It's the first town you reach by road. Lolland is also where the ferry to Germany docks. Like its neighbor Falster, Lolland is what is known as a «pancake island». It's so flat and featureless that you can cycle across it without the slightest effort. In Denmark, the cycle paths are impeccable, well-maintained and usually separated from the road for greater safety. In fact, the N8, which covers 820 km of southern Scandinavia, has just been voted Europe's best cycle route. Lolland is a very rural area, and looks as if it hasn't changed for centuries, whether you're strolling through the streets lined with colorful houses in the small town of Nysted, or standing in front of Aaholm Castle. The journey back in time is complete when you enter the medieval village of Nykøbing (www.middelaldercentret.dk), where knightly combat and artisan demonstrations evoke local life in the 14th century.e century. As you drive through the center of Lolland, you pass through the Maribosøerne Nature Park, Denmark's largest lake area and home to white-tailed eagles and ospreys. This is in stark contrast to the dodecalitten (Dodekalitten) on the north coast. Standing like moais on Easter Island, these 7-metre megaliths, a blend of land art and contemporary art, face the sea. And if you listen carefully, you'll hear them singing. In the distance, you can make out the islands of Femø, Askø and Fejø. Then it's just a short drive west to Nakskov Fjord, Denmark's oldest fjord and now Lolland's other nature park. Take the risk of a stroll along the water's edge on the country's longest pontoon bridge. Or why not take the postal boat ‘Vesta’. Yes, this little wooden skiff is the only way to deliver mail to the small islands and the Albuen Isthmus. It's a great opportunity to observe the marine wildlife and enjoy a swim or a stroll during the stopovers, which sometimes last over an hour.
Two addresses :
Den Gamle Digegaard, Dannemare, www.dengamle-digegaard.dk. Oak beams and thatched roofs: here, you're staying in a splendid farmhouse from bygone days. Either in one of the rooms in the main building or in a ‘sommerhus’, a small, fully-equipped cottage. The address is also a restaurant renowned for its seafood specialities.
Krenkenrup Bryggeri, Sakskøbing, www.krenkenrupbryggeri.dk. The brewery is housed in a postcard castle built in the 17th century.e century. The brewery produces 8 varieties of craft beer. Enjoy them all summer long in the cool beer garden surrounded by half-timbered buildings.
Falster: giant trees and a Caribbean beach
Appearances are deceptive. Between Lolland and Falster, there's only a narrow channel, so narrow that you might imagine you're crossing a river. But it's actually the sea that separates the two islands. The island of Falster, which is also particularly flat, is appreciated above all for its natural beauty, which comes in a multitude of colors. Green, of course, in the vast Corselitze state forest, home to Denmark's tallest tree. The color of natural wood, like the planks of the duckboards you walk on in the pine and birch forest of Bøtø. Dazzling white as you approach the sea at Marielyst. An enchanting site that you wouldn't expect at these latitudes: a 14 km stretch of white sandy beach bathed in translucent waters runs the length of the south-eastern coast of Falster. In the background are the dunes and the forest, home to a large number of vacation homes.
The products of these islands are renowned, and the great thing is that you can discover and enjoy them along the way. Small wooden stalls are set up in the heart of villages and sometimes in the middle of nowhere, offering passers-by the chance to buy honey, jam, fruit juices, vegetables... They trust you to slip the amount of your purchase into a box in exchange. To reach Møn, it's just another hop, skip and a jump over the sea if you're driving. And if you're cycling, a small ferry will take you from Stubbekøbing to Bogø, the tiny island between Falster and Møn.
Two addresses :
Book a shelter, https://bookenshelter.dk/naturlandet. A very backpacker alternative and a 100% natural immersion, these wooden shelters are often very basic - or sometimes more fully equipped - and scattered along the trails. In season, it's best to book in advance.
Pomle Nakke Traktørsted, Horbelev, https://pomlenakke.dk. The location alone, between sea and forest, is well worth a visit. Located on the east coast of the island, you can sit on the terrace or inside. The menu is succinct, but focuses on land and sea and typically Danish products.
More info : www.visitlolland-falster.com.
Møn: white cliffs and dark nights
Of the three, Møn is undoubtedly the most atypical. Although linked to the north-west by the large island of Seeland, which is home to Copenhagen, Møn is a bubble of peace and nature, a little treasure that's well-guarded because it's little-known outside Danish borders. An island that has long seduced generations of artists and painters. But there are, of course, many other reasons to come and lose yourself here... Its greatest asset is its truly impressive chalk cliffs (Møns Klint). They take us back some 70 million years into the past. Long buried, it was the melting of the glaciers that brought them to the surface 6000 years ago. Today, the 7 km-long cliffs plunge 130 m into the turquoise sea. They are best admired from the sea, by kayak for example. Striated with layers of flint, they are also a delight for fossil hunters. To find out more in an attractive and interactive way, drop in at the GeoCenter (www.moensklint.dk).
We also love the astonishing Romanesque churches, all white and covered in magnificent medieval frescoes, which contrast with the usually sober religious buildings of this Lutheran country. Or for the small capital, Stege, a mini-city where red-brick and half-timbered houses alternate with artists' studios. Møn also boasts the country's largest burial mound and a host of Bronze Age sites. For the ultimate in peace and quiet, take a trip to the tiny island of Nyord, linked by a single-lane bridge. Here, a single village of thatched houses clustered around a strangely octagonal chapel. Proof, if any were needed, that you're in for a remarkable destination: the little island is, like other parts of Møn, a certified Dark Sky (www.darkskymoen.dk). On a clear day, your nights will be starry like in few other places.
Two addresses :
Ouregaarden B&B, Stege, www.ouregaarden.dk. For a 100% hygge stopover in a thatched-roof, half-timbered farmhouse... surrounded by nature.
Hyttefadet, Borre, hyttefadet-klintholm.dk. Try the friske fladfisk (breaded fresh fish), a house specialty!
Slagter Stig Stoeberiet, Stoeregade 59, Stege, tel: +45-55 81 42 67. Once a butcher's shop, this is a renowned address, and reservations are recommended. Meat is selected at the counter and prepared to your taste.
Carnet de voyage:
News : www.southcoastofdenmark.com/moen.
How do I get there? The easiest way to get around the islands is by car (sometimes with a ferry crossing). Another option is to take the train from Germany (with a ferry crossing) or from Copenhagen, which links Falster and Lolland but not Møn. Cycling is another great alternative.
Best period From spring to late summer, as autumn starts early in these latitudes.
