A Venetian composer, Vivaldi undoubtedly drew inspiration for his famous concerto from the Venetian seasons. But here's why we, too, love Venice every season of the year.
By Eric Vancleynenbreugel
Spring: light and Vogalonga
With the return of light, Venice is coming back to life. It's not yet crowded, and so much the better, as access to museums and palaces is quicker. On the other hand, if you're looking to party, you're likely to be disappointed, although there are a few dates to nail down:
April 25 is Saint Mark's Day and the Fest del bocolo: men offer roses to the women in their lives (mother, wife...). A beautiful day for... a marriage proposal!
On Ascension Day, Venetians celebrate the union of the city and the sea (Sensa Festival). On the program: costumed parades, shows and folklore.
But the big spring event is the Vogalonga, a nautical parade reserved exclusively for rowing boats. Rowers come from all over the world to row 32 km across the lagoon.
Spring is also the perfect time to take a timeless break at the legendary Caffè Florian. Cuddle up together in one of the cosy lounges 18e for a coffee or chocolate served on a silver platter. If the sun is hot enough, opt for the terrace (extra charge), to admire one of the world's most beautiful squares to the sound of the orchestra. For more tranquility, head for the city's floating gardens, such as the Giardino Papadopoli or the Parc de Sant'Elena.
And on bright days, at the end of the day, you can get a little height by climbing a campanile - the one in Piazza San Marco or, better still, the one at San Giorgio Maggiore - for an unforgettable 360° panorama.
3 reasons to love spring :
- Pleasant weather: mild, inviting temperatures, bright air. You won't suffocate in the vaporetti (which are not air-conditioned), crowded with people in summer;
- To experience the Vogalonga (www.vogalonga.com);
- Hotels are less expensive.
A springtime address :
Al Prosecco wine cellar, 1503 Campo San Giacomo da l'Orio, Santa Croce, www.alprosecco.com. Cheeses, cured meats and fine local wines, a perfect address for a sunny terrace.
Summer: beach and party
Let's face it: for Venetians, summer means millions of tourists invading squares and public transport. And that can get a little hot under the collar. It's also a time of heat peaks: frequently in excess of 35°C in July and August! The odors released by the lagoon can be disturbing.
But summer is above all the liveliest season: festivals, concerts, costume parades, fireworks, street music... the atmosphere is there.
The best gondolier crews compete in the famous Regata Storica (1er Sunday in September).
Then there's La Mostra, the world's most glamorous and oldest film festival. A chance to meet some of the stars.
And if you're looking for a bit of peace and quiet, just step away from the busiest streets and you'll find islands of tranquility, especially in Cannaregio, Castello and Dorsoduro.
Is it hot? There are solutions:
Nothing beats a shopping spree in the narrow streets that run from Piazza San Marco to Rialto. Take advantage of the air conditioning to stock up on Italian fashion.
A few kilometers across the lagoon, your hair blowing in the wind, and you're in another world, that of small islands far from the glitz and glamour of Venice. But they're full of charm, like Burano and its colorful houses, or Murano and its master glassmakers.
And if it's really hot, we head for the beaches.
At the end of the day, we board the Line 1 vaporetto to cruise the entire Grand Canal. We take a seat at the front of the vaporetto, which has a few seats so we can enjoy the breeze and take in the detail of each building, each bridge, the scenes of life that unfold on the banks and on the water under the soft, fading light.
3 reasons to love summer:
- Experience a permanent Venice party;
- The weather is (almost) guaranteed to be fine;
- For a citytrip with beach breaks, click here!
A summer address : a terrace on the Zattere at the end of the day, facing the setting sun and the island of Giudecca. Or a gelato at Nico, Zattere ai Gesuati (www.gelaterianico.com).
Autumn: acqua alta and green crabs
The sweetness of summer (but not its excesses) extends into autumn. This is the best season to capture the soul of Venice, rub shoulders with its inhabitants and soak up their habits and way of life. Staying with local people, you can take advantage of their advice to map out unusual itineraries. We stop off at bars serving cicchetti (Venetian tapas) and tramezzini (triangular filled sandwiches).
It's moeche fishing season, and these little green crabs are eaten as they molt. A little vegetable oil, dipped in flour, they're a Venetian delight. In November, Venice once again has to contend with aqua alta (which peaks in winter): St. Mark's Square and the lower streets are flooded. On average, the city is submerged more than a dozen times over the course of the season... To go out, put on your rubber boots or the overboots sold in the city kiosks. On the riverbanks, you have to be careful, as you can't tell the sidewalks from the canals. More than one absent-minded person has already tasted the waters of the Grand Canal!
If the weather is gloomy, why not take advantage of the fantastic Venetian museums: contemporary art at Palazzo Grassi, Punta della Dogana (Pinault Foundation) or Peggy Guggenheim Foundation, history and ancient art at Correr, Accademia Museum or Ca’ d'Oro.
3 reasons to love autumn:
- For a peaceful end to summer;
- Venetian living;
- And stroll!
An autumn addressIt may be a stone's throw from the famous Rialto Bridge, but the’Osteria al Diavolo l'Aquasanta is frequented by gondoliers, with the mamma at the stove. Small but authentic! Calle della Madonna, San Polo 561B.
Winter: mists and Carnival
To go there in winter is to discover Venice in the morning mist or even under a light blanket of snow. Rest assured, although in 2012 the canals were exceptionally frozen, the thermometer rarely dips below 0°C. In January, it's back to calm mornings and that sweet feeling that the city belongs to us a little. February is Carnival time. It used to last 6 months! Revived in 1980 after a 200-year hiatus, Venice Carnival is one of the oldest, most beautiful and graceful on the planet. It expresses itself in parades (nautical parades, of course), shows in St. Mark's Square and a gentle debauchery of fantastic costumes in the streets. But where you need to be seen without being recognized is at the balls. These events take place in the city's most beautiful halls, but above all in palaces, often private, which are open to a hand-picked public. With an entrance fee, of course. A good tip for experiencing a ball is to rent a costume from one of the boutiques that organize their own parties in magnificent buildings. Like Sogno Veneziano (www.sognovenezianoatelier.com), whose creations are highly polished, but also Antonia Sautter's atelier, which organizes the most exclusive of balls, that of the Doge (www.ilballodeldoge.com)!
In the past, in addition to the large concert halls, many improvised orchestras played in the streets. A tradition that continues in Piazza San Marco and in churches, scuole... and palazzi. But the most glamorous show is the one offered by «Musica a palazzo». A private opera in the magnificent Palazzo Barbarigo-Minotto, on the banks of the Grand Canal. A must on long winter evenings! The audience (max. 30 people!) first settles into the candlelit salon, around the small chamber orchestra. The opera singers enter, and the notes gently tickle the stucco and gold of the palace. Actors and spectators merge. Between two acts and a glass of prosecco, you can also change rooms to witness the denouement of a «Traviata» or a «Barber of Seville». Sublime! www.musicapalazzo.com.
3 reasons to love winter :
- To enjoy the often clear skies;
- Experience the magic of Carnival;
- Enjoy the cosy atmosphere.
An address to visit in winter : Ristoteca Oniga, Campo San Barnaba, Dorsoduro, www.oniga.it. A doll's resto, candles, tasty food (the plate of grilled vegetables is divine!). Perfect for snuggling up on a winter's evening.
Carnet de voyage:
Helpful hints:
- For the vaporetto, consider multi-day passes.
- For museum fans, there are several ‘passes’ that pay for themselves very quickly.
- A very romantic gondola ride, but a real blow to the wallet (€120 minimum!). So, for €2, you can opt for the traghetto, the public gondola that crosses the Grand Canal at several points.
More info: : www.e-venise.com.
