Long known only to a select few, the Alentejo is a magnet for lovers of space and uncluttered vistas. On the menu: wild beaches, rugged landscapes, historic towns and hills topped with white villages.
By Eric Vancleynenbreugel
Photo EV
On the other side of the Tagus lies a province that covers no less than a third of Portugal. Alentejo, as it is called, has been slow to attract travellers. But the Algarve, which extends it to the south, has ceased to overshadow it. Its identical climate, bewitching landscapes and charming little towns do not disappoint. Then it's time to discover its serene lifestyle and countless secret corners. Like Comporta, a superb piece of wild Atlantic coastline, south of the Sado river estuary.
Boho-chic
Christian Louboutin was the first to be won over by the anonymity he could enjoy here. Hitherto unknown even to the most discerning travel guides, Comporta soon attracted other celebrities in its wake: from Javier Bardem to Scarlett Johansson, not forgetting Alicia Vikander, Harrison Ford, Philippe Starck... And Madonna who, in spring 2018, posted a video that quickly went viral showing her galloping on horseback along this beach. What attracts the happy few is, of course, the twelve-kilometer sandy beach, which some say is one of the most beautiful in Europe. No skyscrapers on the horizon, just simple fishermen's cottages and a few designer villas lost among the pines. They also appreciate the small boho-chic boutiques and casual beach bars/restaurants perched on the crests of the dunes. And stay in one of the few select addresses, often clad in wood and raw materials, that have opened up in the pine forests lining the coast. Where the only sound is that of the wind in the branches! And this is almost true of the entire Alentejano coast, which has remained beautifully unspoilt and has avoided the afflictions suffered by the Algarve.
Black pork and gin
The Alentejo also boasts an incredibly rich terroir. Starting with its black pig, which feeds on what it finds in the cork oak undergrowth. It's well known that this animal will eat just about anything, except oak shoots,« explains Ricardo Miranda, a breeder near Santiago do Cacem. No doubt they know they'd be killing their favorite food: acorns. A few kilometers from the coast, this jack-of-all-trades farmer decided a few years ago to diversify his activities by setting up a small distillery. Here, he makes »medronho‘, the traditional carob-based spirit, and... gin, which he wanted to produce using only local ingredients. A challenge met with flying colors: Alentejo locust beans, hand-peeled lemon peel, juniper berries and local herbs all contribute to fresh, fragrant gins. A short-circuit production that he has named ’Black Pig«, in homage to his first business.
Photo EV
With its back to the Atlantic, Alentejo lives up to its reputation for vastness: grain fields, vineyards and cork oak forests stretching to the horizon. A plain with a rugged appearance, sun-drenched in summer, rather cold in winter. Yet it is in the heart of this landscape that different civilizations have fashioned a city covered with palaces, churches and convents. Evora is indeed an open-air history lesson. Starting with the megaliths that have stood in the scrubland around the town for thousands of years.
But also the temple of Diana built by the Romans in the 2nd century.e century. The Gothic cathedral from the 12the century. It's a heritage that becomes even more unusual when you enter the Chapel of the Bones inside the São Francisco church. Engraved in the marble lintel of the chapel's entrance door, a phrase - «We, the bones who are here, are waiting for yours»- has been inviting visitors since the 16th century.e century, visitors are invited to meditate on vanity and attachment to earthly goods. Then it's time for the unexpected: from the walls to the columns, the chapel is lined with skulls, femurs and tibias. Bones collected centuries ago from the city's tombs and churches. Thanks to its long history and its architectural homogeneity, representative of the 16e and 17e Today, Evora is a UNESCO World Heritage Site in its entirety.
Another universal jewel, the bastion city of Elvas, always makes an impression. Positioned a cannon shot from the Spanish border, right on the most direct route to Lisbon, Europe's largest fortified town extends an imposing network of star-shaped forts over the surrounding hills. Arriving on the Estremoz road, another gigantic masterpiece dominates the horizon: the Amoreira aqueduct spans the valley like a monster, with its 843 arches, some of which are over 30 metres high.
Photo Eric Vancleynenbreugel
Invisible wine
One out of every two bottles of Portuguese wine is produced in the Alentejo region. Most of the wines are red, fruity and full-bodied, but the methods used to make them are sometimes highly unusual too. Near Monsaraz, the Adega Ervideira (http://ervideira.com) offers tastings of its products on a rooftop terrace overlooking the vineyards. Don't miss his ‘invisible wine’ (a white made from red grapes!) and ‘water wine’ (aged on the bottom of the Alqueva artificial lake, the largest in Europe). Wine and cork go hand in hand, especially in Alentejo, the world's largest producer of this natural material. The vast forests of cork oaks, with trunks varying from beige to blood-red, contribute to a unique landscape. The bark is harvested every nine years, but while some cork is still made into corks, its applications have exploded: surfboards, insulation and trim material for cars (seats, dashboards...) and even vegetable leather for caps and handbags!
In search of silence
On the eastern edge of the province, the relief folds as you approach Spain. Here, villages rise to the summits. Surrounded by ramparts and dominated by its castle, Monsaraz is fascinatingly majestic, stretching out on a spur facing the winding shores of Lake Alqueva. Its low, whitewashed houses, punctuated with green or blue, are squeezed together along the two main streets that run alongside the ramparts. At its foot, immense landholdings share the plain.
Planted with oaks, olive trees and dolmens, the São Lourenço do Barrocal estate has been in the hands of the same family for eight generations. This splendid estate is arranged in an unusual way along a paved road bordered on both sides by the immaculate buildings that once housed farm workers and their families. With its uncluttered rooms and Zen chic ambience, everything here encourages you to let go: the two swimming pools, horseback rides and bicycles are just waiting for those curious enough to explore the property dotted with menhirs and dolmens.
Here, as soon as night falls, the sky fills with an incredibly dense shower of stars. Sparsely populated, the Alentejo is a privileged sanctuary for star hunters, but the entire region around Lake Alqueva has also been named a «Dark Sky Reserve». Here, every night, public lighting in the surrounding municipalities is deliberately reduced to a minimum, so that the Milky Way can be contemplated on at least 250 nights a year.
Alentejo at the table:
Alentejo cuisine is simple but full of taste and flavor, based on fresh, local ingredients such as olive oil, bread, herbs and artisan cheeses. Here are a few must-tries:
- Açorda : a tasty bread soup with garlic, coriander and poached eggs. Sometimes served with cod.
- Carne de Porco in Alentejana: a pork and shellfish stew flavoured with coriander.
- Sericaia A traditional cinnamon pudding, often served with plums.
- Alentejo Gazpacho A cold tomato and cucumber soup, similar to the Spanish version.
- Queijo de Nisa en Serpa : spicy, creamy sheep's milk cheeses that go perfectly with the region's red wines.
- Linguiça (spicy sausage) of farinheira (soft, spicy sausage containing wheat flour). They are often served with pork or fried bacon.
Carnet de voyage :
Accommodation :
Santiago Hotel Cooking & Nature (www.santiagohotel.pt): breathtaking views over the old town of Santiago do Cacem, bright spaces, outdoor pool, fitness center... and above all, an open kitchen where the emphasis is on products. Cooking classes available on request.
São Lourenço do Barrocal (www.barrocal.pt): when staying on a farm becomes exclusive and deeply Zen-like.
Eating out :
Comporta Café, on Comporta beach. Refresh yourself with local wines, cocktails and smoothies, while the catch of the day and seafood platters grace the tables.
Best season The seasons are spring and autumn, but summer is ideal for lovers of blazing sun.
News : www.visitalentejo.com.
