Cube-shaped white houses, stony lands beaten by the Aeolus and burnt by the sun as they plunge into an inky-blue Aegean, the islands are the bastion of an eternal Greece. As beautiful and fascinating as they are little-known, here are 4 islands where authenticity has not given way to souvenir shops.
Astypalea - In the heart of the Aegean Sea
Astypalea is the butterfly island, the shape it takes on a map. Lost in the middle of the Aegean, it seems to fly from the Dodecanese, the archipelago to which it is attached, towards the Cyclades, which it resembles in many respects: plain houses, blue shutters, tortured relief, parched by the sun and planed by the winds for much of the year. A trip to Astypalea begins in Chora, by far the island's main village. An aesthetic marvel, balanced on the rock above the sea. At the top, a castle unlike any other in the eastern Mediterranean, where houses are interwoven with fortifications. At its foot, a tangle of alleys, cul-de-sacs, small family chapels and narrow passages. Apart from a few villages, the rest of the island is largely mountainous and wild. There are also some beautiful, unspoilt beaches that can be reached by hiking. Calm, natural and authentic - that's how life on Astypaléa is summed up.
To be done here and nowhere else :
1At the end of the road heading north, a path leads through rocky terrain to the bay of Vathi. Three houses and Maria's ouzerie make for an unforgettable stopover.
2. Enjoy secluded beaches with crystal-clear waters.
3. A boat trip to nearby islets. On the program: lagoons and sea caves.
2 addresses :
- Apanemia Meze Shop, Chora, Astypalea. Right next to the 5 churches. Favas, salads, stuffed turnovers, fresh squid and octopus... as the name suggests, you'll enjoy home-made mezzes prepared by Elias' wife, who works in the dining room. All to the sound of rebetiko music.
- Aiolos, Pera Gialos, Astypalea. Facing the port, Astypalea specialties prepared by Efthymia. Try the island's typical filled pastry turnovers and the local version of pizza.
Andros - The Green Cyclade
Although close to Athens, it is often overlooked by travelers. Yet the largest of the Cyclades is as fascinating as it is unusual. Mountainous and verdant, Andros is the only island with permanent waterways. Here, windmills were powered not by wind but by water. Its centuries-old hiking trails, often paved, have been redeveloped by a handful of enthusiasts (www.androsroutes.gr). This is a chance to walk through lost villages, among gardens and vegetable patches, drinking from countless springs and fountains, and then suddenly marvelling at a plunging view of the Aegean Sea. Andros prospered thanks to its shipowners. Admire their palaces in Chora and Steniès. Some are now home to art foundations with popular exhibitions. And enjoy the magnificent, secluded beaches that dot its eastern flank.
To be done here and nowhere else :
1 Panachradou monastery: over 1000 years old, suspended above the Messaria valley. A warm welcome from Father Evdokimos and brothers Aetios and Philaretos.
2 The Museum of Contemporary Art in Chora hosts international exhibitions every summer (www.moca-andros.gr).
The turquoise beaches of the northeast coast.
2 addresses :
- Laskari's Patisserie, on Chora's main street: everything is homemade at this 110-year-old address!
- Athina Stamou (Mesaria - Vaconi, +30-22820 51551) makes delicious goat cheeses: plain or with peppers & herbs, mild or (very) full-bodied.
Tinos - The island of pigeon lofts
Located just across the road from boiling Mykonos, Tinos is a complete contrast, especially for its timeless villages, often perched on hilltops, like Kardiani, or hidden away in the corner of a valley, like Agapi. Their immaculate houses seem to sit like a snow cap on the landscape. The island is also well known to the Orthodox, who come here on pilgrimage for the feasts of March 25 (Annunciation) and August 15. The island also boasts a strong Catholic community, a legacy of centuries of Venetian presence. Many Tiniotes are descended from Venetian patrician families, and the Serenissima left another mark: hundreds of dovecotes. Some are veritable works of art, with lacy facades or decorated with figures.
To be done here and nowhere else :
1. The village of Tarambados for its vaulted passageways and dovecotes.
2. Volax, set in a landscape of large rocks and renowned for its basket makers.
3. Pyrgos, capital of marble and galaktoboureko (milk cake).
1 address :
- To Limanaki. Tavern on the small port of Panormos. For a hearty mezze (fresh fish, Tinos sausages, grilled cheeses, fennel and zucchini cake...), come here.
Syros - She has all the makings of a great one
Built in the shape of an amphitheatre, the town of Ermoúpoli stretches over two hills from which cubic houses cascade. We're definitely in the Cyclades. Along the quays, fishing boats and pleasure craft jostle with restaurant terraces. It's a picture that brings to mind the Saint-Tropez of the 1960s. And don't miss the marble-paved district of Vaporia (whose name means ‘boat’ in Greek), born at a time when the island was building steamships. Nor the ancient hilltop village of Ano Syros, perched high above the town. As you move inland, the landscape becomes greener. Figs, capers and grapes are still grown here. The island is one of the few where tourism is not the main activity. The town council's aim is to maintain a reasonable level of sustainable tourism. Even the numerous hiking trails criss-crossing the mountains are deliberately unmarked.
To be done here and nowhere else :
1. The town hall and, above all, the Apollon theater, directly inspired by La Scala in Milan, bear witness to the island's past splendour. A building unlike any other in the Cyclades.
2. Dressed in work clothes, visit the living museum set up by Hermoupolis Heritage (www.hermoupolisheritage.com) in a former textile factory. Generations of young women, some as young as 11, worked here until its sudden and mysterious closure in 1986.
3. After a stroll, relax on the terrace and enjoy the exceptional view of Ermoúpoli and the Aegean Sea.
3 addresses :
- To Mikraki, Thermopilon & Folengandrou 4, Ermoúpoli: in a narrow alley, under bougainvillea and curtains, typical Cycladic cuisine.
- O kontos stou Rafogianni, Azolimnos: in the south-east of the island, by the beach, a map facing the sea.
- To Petrino, Stefanou Kiparisou Klonos 9, Ermoúpoli, https://petrinosyros.gr/Asia Minor specialties (caper salad...) delicately crafted.
