Andalusia as seen from its rivers - now that's unusual. A journey that takes in the most beautiful cities in the south of the country, takes in the Atlantic and even skirts the Portuguese border. Immediate boarding.
By Eric Vancleynenbreugel
Photo: Eric Vancleynenbreugel
Day 1: Welcome aboard
There she is, all gleaming white, moored in the heart of Seville, right next to magnificent gardens and the famous Spanish Steps. If you're a fan of huge cruise liners, don't bother. Yes, «La Belle de Cadix» is 110 meters long... but it contains just 88 comfortable, welcoming cabins.
So there's no shortage of space on board. Two bar lounges, a restaurant where all passengers can dine in a single service, a boutique and a vast sundeck host communal activities. But it's also the ambiance that sets this boat apart. And you'll feel all the more relaxed on board because everything is included, including the smiles, welcome and hospitality of the CroisiEurope crew.
Day 2: Palaces and gardens of Granada
The first half-day allowed us to get our bearings, but before we start sailing, the trip begins with an exploration of Granada. A myth. A full day's stroll through the palaces and gardens of one of Spain's most beautiful cities. Chiseled arcades, magnificently crafted doors, mosaic-covered walls, heavenly patios... An unforgettable escape into a world of refinement and purity. The guides are passionate about their work and share their love of the city. Back on the boat, the fatigue of the visit and the road quickly fades over a cocktail served by an ever-precious crew, the prelude to a bistronomic dinner prepared by a French chef. After all, fine dining is another of CroisiEurope's strong points.
Day 3: Stopover in the rice paddies
This morning, discover Seville on foot, starting with the Alcazar. This sumptuous palace, built by the Moors in the heart of the city, is surrounded by immense, lush gardens punctuated by refreshing fountains and pools. Anecdotally, the guide explains that this is where the oranges used to make the late Queen of England's favorite marmalade are grown!
Directly opposite, the former mosque is now a cathedral, the third largest church in the world. Here lies Christopher Columbus in an imposing stone sarcophagus. I also take the opportunity to climb the Giralda tower, formerly a minaret, which overlooks the entire city, for a 360° «wow» view. On the way back to the river, I make a detour to the monumental Plaza de España, a meeting place for all lovers.
A 100% Andalusian river, the Guadalquivir rises at an altitude of 1,600 meters several hundred kilometers to the east. Thanks to its tributary, the Genil, it becomes navigable from Seville, Spain's only river port. It then follows its tranquil course for 89 km to the ocean. On this journey, the boat makes an unlikely first stop, right in the middle of the rice paddies. It's here, on the river's edge, that we discover a majestic finca. Totally isolated, it nonetheless imposes with the majesty of its buildings and stables. Its small arena is where Louis de Funès and Yves Montand find themselves in «La Folie des Grandeurs», trapped against a shady bull. And it's on the sands of this same arena that we witness an incredible spectacle where the grace of a flamenco dancer meets that of an Andalusian horse. At the mouth of the river, the boat enters the Atlantic, heading for... another river.
Day 4: Horses, jerez and flamenco
The boat docked on the banks of the Guadalete River, in Puerto de Santa Maria. Once known as «the city of a hundred palaces», this is where all the ships from the New World passed through. People came from all over Europe in search of the rare products brought back from the colonies. Local merchants grew rich beyond belief.
In the morning, our first excursion takes us to the nearby town of Jerez de la Frontera, doubly famous. Firstly, for its dancing horses, trained Andalusian-style. An art you can admire in a traditional stud farm. And secondly for its vineyards, among the oldest in Europe. Over 2,500 years ago, the Phoenicians brought their vines and olive trees here. The region produces a wine that is said to be mutated by the addition of brandy, and is matured in several cellars in the small town.
After visiting one of the most famous, the end of the day is devoted to discovering Cadiz. Founded in 1100 B.C. by the Phoenicians, it is said to be the oldest city in the West! Its narrow streets, lined with tall houses and palaces, lead to a lively square or to the corniche. Swept by the sea spray, it is reminiscent of Havana's Malecon.
Yes, Cadiz is a favorite: its cathedral over the ocean, its mirador towers and its exotic parque Genovés with botanical surprises in every alley. In addition to its architectural treasures, what also makes Cadiz so appealing is its openness to the sea and the possibility of taking a break on the beach, just a few minutes after a shopping spree! The day ends on a high note: after a Spanish meal on the boat, we head to one of the city's bodegas for an evening to the lively rhythms of a group of gypsy musicians and dancers.
Photo: Eric Vancleynenbreugel
Day 5: Crochet in... Portugal
Once again, «La Belle de Cadix» travels up a new river, the Guadiana. On one bank, Spain, on the other, Portugal. Mid-morning, we disembark on the Portuguese side of the river, in the charming, tranquil town of Alcoutim, still protected by its castle-belvedere. After a visit to the fortress, it's time to settle down on the terrace for a coffee and some local pastries, before resuming our voyage to the Atlantic Ocean and the port of Huelva. A beautiful, tranquil afternoon sailing under the sun and the caress of the sea breeze.
Day 6: Columbus, the local star
This morning, excursion to the monastery of La Rabida and the nearby port of Palos. It was in the former that Christopher Columbus stayed and prepared for his voyage, and in the latter that he weighed anchor to cross the Atlantic. A fascinating story brought to life at the ‘Parc des Caravelles’. Aboard the three life-size reconstructed ships of the first voyage, visitors can experience the harshness of this first journey into the unknown.
Just off the Atlantic, the Belle de Cadix approaches San Lucar de Barrameda. The town stretches along immense sandy beaches right at the mouth of the Guadalquivir. From the sun deck, you can make out the shades between the river and the ocean. Once the pilot is on board to help navigate, the ship plunges into the rough waters of the river mouth. On the other side of the river stretches the immense Doñana National Park, where pine forests compete with marshes. Home to the Iberian Lynx, but above all to millions of birds, this area is essential for migration between Europe and Africa. Then the land becomes uniformly flat, barely rising above the waves. In the few trees that line the river, hundreds of storks nest. A beautiful landscape stretching for dozens of kilometers, punctuated here and there by rare fincas where bulls and horses frolic.
Seville is just around the corner, but tonight, in keeping with maritime tradition, everyone is invited to dress to the nines for the gala dinner. The kitchen is busy preparing an even more delicate meal than usual, culminating in the traditional Norwegian omelette brought to us by the restaurant staff.
Day 7: Cordoba, for a grand finale
Navigation is over, but this morning, after a good hour's coach ride, we find the Guadalquivir River well upstream, where it bathes another splendor: Cordoba. Just enough time to cross the majestic Roman bridge and enter the sun-drenched, blond stone streets where the Mezquita rises.
Originally a Roman temple, it later became a church before being transformed into a mosque by Christian craftsmen brought over from Byzantium. No luxury was too great: gold, lapis lazuli, cut stones of every color. It covers an area of 22,000 m2, and it's not even finished yet! The forest of 680 blue and pink marble columns, offering endless perspectives of superimposed arches, is a sight to behold. Fortunately, it was not destroyed during the Spanish Reconquest, but rather re-consecrated. With their eyes still filled with wonder at such splendor, the passengers return to the ship for a final night on the water. This atypical voyage along the Andalusian rivers was a change of scenery for everyone, at their own pace. Be pampered from morning to night and just think about relaxing, going on excursions or enjoying a well-deserved rest on the boat. So many pleasures that make such a trip even more unforgettable.
Carnet de voyage :
How to get there This 7-day cruise is offered all year round by CroisiEurope, a French company specializing in river itineraries. The price (port/port formula) includes full board, drinks (including alcoholic beverages) in the restaurant and bar, transfers, several excursions, insurance/repatriation assistance and port taxes.
Entertainment and lectures in French, Dutch, English... depending on passenger requests and nationalities. Excursions and guided tours (with audioguide) enable you to grasp every aspect of your ports of call.
Every summer, we offer the Croisifamille formula: free admission for children up to 16 years of age, entertainment dedicated to the youngest and supervision when parents want to go on excursions.
More info and reservations : in travel agencies and www.croisieurope.com.
Photos: Eric Vancleynenbreugel
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