Sailing the Nile aboard a dahabiya makes perfect sense in the age of slow travel. That's what we discovered on board the «Reines», the brand-new boat from the «Les Voyages de Pharaon» company.
By Eric Vancleynenbreugel
This small company operates two dahabiyas to recapture the peaceful rhythm of travelling with the currents. Boats in which wood is the main material are set in motion by a smaller motorized skiff. The only difference - and this is an important nuance - is that it's a pusher rather than a tug that moves the boat. No noise, no diesel fumes.
You'll soon realize that traveling aboard one of these two boats means slipping into a concept where passengers are welcomed and pampered like guests. Because everything has been thought out and designed to make you feel at home from the outset. Such is the spirit of Mohamed Salem, a man with a long career in tourism behind him, who has been able to draw the best from his experience and, above all, understand what customers from Europe expect. So passionate is he that he never ceases to fine-tune the details and surprise from start to finish with a host of little innovations not found elsewhere.
As with many itineraries, it's in Luxor that we meet our boat, just a stone's throw from the famous ancient temple. We first climb aboard a small motorboat to reach our charming floating hotel anchored on the other side of the river. A tranquil position far from the noise of the city. The «Reines», second boat of the «Les Voyages de Pharaon» company, measures 55 meters in length and has just been inaugurated in the spring of 2024. On board, you'll find the same standards as on the «Rois», which has been cruising the Nile since 2014.
Luxury also means space
Both boats boast the largest cabins to be found on the Nile's fleet of dahabiyas: 21 m². When you open the door for the first time, you're surprised to find yourself facing the Nile, which flows past behind the large bay window illuminating each cabin. Each is equipped with a large private bathroom with walk-in shower, hairdryer, bathrobes and slippers, safe and minibar. The style, which blends Victorian touches with typically oriental elements, was conceived by Mohamed Salem's wife. The couple's attention to detail is unmistakable, as each day brings a new tablecloth and harmonious decorations to the table.
There's no reception on the boat, and that's deliberate. «My aim is to make passengers feel right at home,» says Mohamed Salem, always eager to be different.
On the «Reines», you can make the most of the outside spaces and the sailing moments: breakfasts and dinners are taken on the navigation deck, and this is a real «plus». The food is another strong point of this company. The food is fresh and varied. Most products are local. The menus, all homemade, take passengers between East and West. Kefta, stuffed pigeon, baklava, moutabal... every meal is a veritable parade of finely crafted, deliciously seasoned dishes. One of the company's strengths is its "made-to-order" service, whether at breakfast, when the chef prepares almost everything you want, or at lunchtime, when certain dishes are cooked on deck just before being served. Whether it's salads, raw vegetables or freshly squeezed juices, there's nothing to worry about: everything is meticulously cleaned. While the water in Egypt is often not pure enough to avoid minor problems, the water used on board is filtered and purified, making it perfectly drinkable.
A long quiet river
Dahabiya means «golden boat». «For my part, I prefer to say that the gold is my crew,» smiles Mohamed Salem as he introduces his staff, whom he considers to be more like a large family. 24 crew members (including 6 in the kitchen) to take care of a maximum of 20 passengers, who could do better?.
A journey by dahabiya takes the passenger back to the turn of the 20th century.e This was a time when travel on the Nile was a leisurely affair, with just the right amount of sophistication to make the most of the splendours of this unique valley. For beyond the exclusive aspect of being with a very small group of passengers, it's above all the long periods of navigation that are so appealing. While many boats sail at night to concentrate as much activity and sightseeing as possible during the day, this itinerary allows you to enjoy the wide variety of landscapes you'll pass through. And those who fear pitching and tossing should be reassured: navigation on the Nile is tranquil, and the depths are shallow.
«Memory maker»
As soon as the «Reines» starts moving, it's like leaving the outside world behind. The peaceful sailing acts as a tranquilizer. The gentle rustle of the wind in the reeds, the cries of children enjoying a bath on the banks, the song of the birds - a range of sounds barely interrupted from time to time by the whistle of the train that doubles the Nile from north to south.
As the journey progresses, passengers plunge into the mysteries of ancient Egypt. Karnak and Luxor to begin with. The Valley of the Kings and its tombs, which we feel privileged to enter. The rarely-visited funerary temple of Ramses III is a marvel to behold. Not far away, the funerary temple of Queen Hatshepsut at Deir El Bahari. Further up the Nile valley, the temples of Edfu and Kom Ombo. Before the famous temples of Philae and Abu Simbel, on the edge of Upper Egypt. At the helm of the tours is a seasoned Egyptologist guide. Where there might be a risk of plunging into a discourse that is either too academic or too approximate, Sherif Adel effortlessly manages to carry his audience away into ancient Egypt and its mysteries. Distilling fascinating information, not omitting the latest scientific discoveries and theories, each time placing the temples and archaeological sites in their context and pointing out the surprising and unusual aspects of the history of the sites. For the Egypt of the Pharaohs is above all a whirlwind of gods and kings that we now know a little more about. But what we'll probably retain most of all is a new or renewed passion for an extraordinary civilization.
An island under the stars
Thanks to its shallow draught, the dahabiya can stop almost anywhere, and certainly in places where other boats cannot. Like this stopover at El Kab or Gebel Silsilla, which few cruises include in their program. And for good reason: there isn't even a docking pontoon. The stopover at Gebel Silsilla, for example, enabled us to discover the main sandstone quarry of ancient Egypt, stretching along both banks of the river. Some of these stops seem almost improvised, as on this late afternoon when the «Reines» moored to a small sandbank. And then, out of the blue, to prepare a barbecue under the stars, right there on an island in the middle of the Nile! I won't say any more, because surprises are one of Mohamed Salem's secret tricks. An enthusiast and, as he describes himself, a «creator of memories», whose inventiveness pushes him ever further in his desire to please his passengers and offer them an unforgettable trip.
5 reasons to opt for this trip :
1. An intimate cruise.
2. Daytime sailing (unlike many other companies).
3. Ultra-personalized service.
4. Table quality.
5. High-flying guidance.
News : www.voyages-pharaon.com and travel agencies.
- 8d/7n full-board cruise, including flight, from €2,633.
- Departure guaranteed from 2 passengers.
- For groups, the entire boat can be chartered.
- Optional extras include a stopover in Cairo (including a visit to the Grand Egyptian Museum), sound and light shows at the sites or a hot-air balloon flight over the Nile.
- Numerous extensions available (stay at Abu Simbel, Denderah, Red Sea...).
