In north-western Saudi Arabia, the lunar landscapes of Al-Ula sweep the traveller up in a fascinating whirlwind of ancient lost necropolises, massive sandstones chiselled by time and oases buried under palm trees.
By Eric Vancleynenbreugel
Until recently, no one would have bet on Saudi Arabia as a new tourist destination. Today, countless tour operators have been seduced and added it to their offer. The highlight is an oasis lost on the edge of the Hedjaz, a sparsely populated, remote province in the north-west of the Kingdom: Al Ula.
First impressions
A first trip to Saudi Arabia is logically accompanied by a host of preconceptions and questions. First surprise: there's nothing furnace-like about the atmosphere. At least in winter, the temperature is pleasant and mild during the day, and even very cool at nightfall. It's obviously the ideal time of year to visit. Second surprise: many restrictive laws have disappeared. While you'd expect to be subject to many restrictions, you can move around freely and the police are no more present than elsewhere. As for women, they no longer have to wear the veil or abaya. Third surprise: the Al-Ula region is not a monotonous desert, quite the contrary. The azure-blue sky is matched by the red sands from which emerge biscornus rocks, the green of the oases and the ochre of the mud houses. A particularly bewitching landscape, over-saturated with color, untouched by tourism until now. Some call it the most beautiful mountain desert on the planet, and let's face it, it doesn't have much competition.
At the crossroads of three continents, Al-Ula is a timeless place. Nestling in the long chain of mountains that border the Red Sea coast, the oasis stretches across a valley covered with date palms and banana trees. In the middle of a desert that is thought to be empty, but which turns out to be incredibly rich in scenery, criss-crossed by canyons and crevasses, abounding in unexpected discoveries. Suddenly, behind a seemingly innocuous pink sandstone boulder, you come face to face with an immense, entirely sculpted wall.
Renaissance of the desert tombs
It all happened very quickly: although there were the tales of the ancients about cities sunk beneath the sands, we had to wait until the early 2000s before discovering the immensity of this deposit of a different kind. First of all, there are the immense tombs hewn out of the rock, some of which are still partly exposed and serve as shelters for shepherds. Remnants of the Nabataean civilization, the same civilization that built Petra in present-day Jordan. Each tomb belonged to a family, who bought the façade and then had it fitted out and sculpted according to their means. In some sites, they belonged mainly to wealthy female merchants. Then came the discovery of Hegra, a trading city at the crossroads of the incense routes, mentioned in some ancient writings but whose location was unknown. Although the Nabataeans spoke ancient Arabic, most of the inscriptions are in Aramaic, the language of the traders. In all, more than 110 tombs have already been uncovered, with new ones being discovered every year. What's more, a recent aerial survey has identified tens of thousands of sites and remains in the region! In 2008, Hegra became the first Saudi site to be classified as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The sand library
Throughout the desert, thousands of rock engravings - the site is now considered the fourth largest on the planet - bear witness to the fact that the region has been inhabited since the dawn of time, when it was also more verdant. More than 5,000 have been identified around the ancient city of Dadan alone. They depict lions, ostriches, giraffes, dromedaries, hunters and a host of written documents. An immense library from the mists of time, virtually untouched by the weather. Dadan, also currently being excavated, has already yielded immense stone statues and tombs adorned with sculpted lions. Precious evidence of the ancient Lihyanite civilization, which predates the Nabataeans.
Back to the old village
Until the early 1980s, the inhabitants of Al-Ula lived in the old adobe village during the summer and moved to their nearby farm for the winter to cultivate the oasis. Almost abandoned with the influx of oil revenues, the Al-Ula oasis has now been rehabilitated. With its narrow streets lined with mud-brick houses, you enter a tale of 1001 nights, led by locals who recount the life of yesteryear. The view from the old fort overlooking the town is splendid. A walk through the gardens of the oasis, along the irrigation canals, is a must. In addition to the signposted trails, there are plans for cycle paths and bridle paths. All around, the desert is re-greening. A national program aims to plant tens of millions of trees to counter global warming. The species, preferably local, are carefully selected and improved in state-funded nurseries.
A desert of infinity
To gain height, an impressive winding road climbs the peaks close to the oasis. It leads to the Harrat promontory, from where the view embraces the entire valley. The restaurant and music lounge on the rock is a concept unthinkable here just a few years ago. Many come here at the end of the day, when the desert is ablaze. And this despite the fact that music was prohibited until recently. Now, international stars come to perform on the sands of Arabia. Not least in the astonishing ‘Maraya’ concert hall, built in the middle of the desert, whose mirrored facades make it almost invisible, being forgotten in favor of the landscapes it endlessly reflects. Some celebrities, such as Alicia Keys, have even fallen under the region's spell to the point of buying a property here.
1001 starry nights
As night falls, locals and visitors gather to the sound of live music. lounge sitting in improbable lounges built into the sands, by the light of torches and illuminations highlighting rock formations and archaeological sites. It's hard not to succumb to a sunset over the immense monolith of Jebel Alfil, whose shape evokes a gigantic sandstone elephant. Opposite, an impressive arch sculpted by the wind. Other formations resemble large mushrooms whose caps have melted. In fact, the whole region is full of lunar scenery, with rocks emerging like improbable reefs from a sea of sand.
Further afield, on the Gharameel plateau, the desert offers a meditative experience of silence and complete darkness. Why not learn to read the sky, as in the days of the caravans, during a stargazing and Milky Way observation session. And when the cold becomes too much to bear, the evening continues in a Bedouin tent with a traditional meal and aromatic coffee. Even at night, the Al-Ula desert never ceases to turn heads.
Culture, sport and tourism, the keys to openness
Saudi Arabia is the latest country to open up to the outside world. An opening focused on culture, sport and tourism. Easy-to-obtain visas (actually e-visa), extensive freedoms and the organization of cultural and sporting events, such as the ‘AlUla Tour’ cycling race (www.thealulatour.com), are designed to appeal to travelers, who can now criss-cross the country at their leisure, not only by car, but also by bike (the region is working towards becoming a cycling destination) or on foot, hiking/trekking. Al Ula also dreams of becoming the new Ouarzazate of cinema. Studios are under construction and the Arabian sands have already been trodden by the likes of Guy Ritchie, Gerard Butler and Johnny Depp. The warm welcome reflects the desire of many Saudis to finally make contact with the rest of the world.
Is it ethical to travel in Saudi Arabia?
Many of us wonder whether it's acceptable to travel to a country often decried for its lack of respect for human rights. As one Saudi explained to us, many things have really changed, and Saudi Arabia is not the same as it was five years ago. And once you're there, you'll find the same thing: while the destination has come a long way in terms of freedoms, it is in the throes of change. Today, Saudi women have the right to go out on their own, unaccompanied, and are no longer obliged to wear revealing clothing or to drive or work. They are increasingly represented in many professions, including at decision-making level. The religious police no longer exist, and music is once again allowed. These reforms have been well received, especially by young people who have been in religious prison. Of course, there is still a certain rigorism, but we don't particularly ask ourselves as many questions about other autocratic destinations to which we have become accustomed, such as China, Iran, Cuba and even Turkey.
